El Fin

Our final day in Argentina was heavily debated upon. We couldn't decide if we wanted to make our way to Colonia, Uruguay or head to the Tigre Delta. Ultimately we opted for the latter trip and made our way just like one of the locals. We hopped on the subway to the Retiro train station where we caught the one hour train out to the delta. Near Retiro station located on the other side of the tracks is where the BA "villas" are located. These slums left a lot to be desired in terms of adequate living conditions. As the train left the station we could see 1,000s of these homes. The route would take us along some of the wealthier neighborhoods in the province. We enjoyed getting the feel of the local train which was littered with different salesman offering a Chinese menu of assorted items. You could buy almost anything from battery packs to pastries. After an hours ride we arrived in Tigre where we opted for a boat cruise of the delta on a beautiful summer day. The area is the second largest delta in the world and is home to a multitude of wealthy residents who live along the river banks and islands on the delta. We passed many people enjoy a summer Saturday on their socks, jetskis, and boats.

After our boat ride we walked the town to the Puerto de Frutos and handicraft market that has nearly 1,000 stores selling practically the same goods. We continued our stroll past some of the other museums and landmarks before catching our train back to BA. In efforts to fully bookend our trip we made one last gelato stop and at out on the sidewalk enjoying some of the last hours of summer while we waited for Mauro. He arrived on time quite possibly the only person in the country to do so and drove is off the EZE Airport. A beautiful sunset drive was our last sights of Argentina and of the trip I will remember forever.  

The Mighty Jungle

Today's adventure was to Iguazu National Park to see my second Natural Wonder of the World, Iguazu Falls. Our guide Diego was there to show us the way on this rainy day. Our first area of the park we were set to explore for the Garganta del Diablo (Devils Throat) which was accessible after taking s shirt train riding and walking along the overpass for about a mile. The Devils throat, split between Argentina and Brazil, is the highest point of the falls and dumps a pounding 1million litres/second of water into the river below. This accounts for nearly half of the waterfall in the park. As we made our way along the path water fell from the sky as if we were beneath the Devils throat itself. Raincoats seemed futile as nothing was defending from the downpour above. Despite the rain we saw the immense falls that were thrashing even more water today due to the showering above.

 We returned by train back to the main area of the park where we began the walk of the upper circuit above the falls. Afterwards we enjoyed a quick lunch in the cafe. Our optimism about the second half of the day was pulling through as the clouds dried up just enough for us to take on the Jungle excursion. This trip began by boarding a 4x4 truck that led us through the park and to the Iguazu River where we loaded up boats that would take us up close and personal to the falls. The boat into the basin of the Devils throat and up close and personal to the Three Musketeers Falls along with the San Martin Falls (the second highest  peak of the falls). After taking a few photos the trip leaders yelled to everyone to place their cameras in the waterproof bags we were provided right before he drove the boat into the falls drenching everyone aboard for the second time today. We couldn't have been happier with our option to take the boat trip as it was the best way to appreciate the size and power of the Iguazu Falls. 

The boat trip ended at the bottom of the lower circuit of the falls were we met Diego who showed us along the route. 

I preferred the lower circuit to the upper since it allowed us to get more up close and personal. As we walked the route we had a few cappuccini monkeys drop by and play with onlookers hoping to be fed. Our trip to the falls came to a close after finishing the lower circuit and we returned to the hotel to dry out a bit before heading to the center of the unimpressive Puerto Iguazu town for perhaps our best meal yet!

The next day we woke up to make the most of or last day in Iguazu. We hopped in a cab and rode the few kilometers to Hito 3 Fronteras a viewpoint located at the intersection of 2 rivers along the border of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay. 

Afterward we headed back into town where we caught the local bus back to the hotel. A measly 50 pesos ended up taking us on a cheap tour of the true Puerto Iguazu as we weaved through the neighborhoods picking up the whole village. We hear temperatures back home are touching well into the negatives including the windchill and with our trip winding down we needed to take advantage of the Argentine summer and laid out by the pool for a few hours. We tried to see the animal sanctuary next to our hotel but tours guided only in Spanish were enough to deter us from this adventure. I must say some pool time did us good before jetting off to Buenos Aires for the final leg of our incredible trip. Upon arrival we made our way through rush hour traffic with just enough time to walk to Temple Libertad where we were treated to a argentine Kabbalat shabbat. After 2 weeks in Argentinian the culture was rubbing off on us as we sat down at dinner at 9:30pm. Lucky for us we got the last table on the sidewalk for our final summer feast accompanied with a little bit of police fanfare and apparent arrests for crimes we are unsure of. 

Bariloche Treks

Our next day's excursion brought us to the Arrenayas Forrest and Victoria Island. Our half day pickup was late as is seemingly everything here in Argentina. As our guide Raul gave us some background information we rode along the lake until reaching the port from which we'd embark. The Cau Cau (Big Seagull) catamaran was aptly named due to the large flocks of seagulls that followed the ship on its voyage. Maybe it's growing up hating seagulls but I was repulsed as foreigners flocked to the upper deck for their chance to feed the creatures by hand. After about 2 hours of sailing our group of nearly 10 english speakers of the 250 people on board went with Raul through the forrest of Arrenyas trees. These orange barked trees only grow as tall in this particular island. We learned of the indigenous people and animals that inhabited the island and of the Chilean volcanic eruption that spewed a few meters of ash in the region threatening the survival of the plant life. As the conclusion of our trip sat a small cottage that, legend has it, inspired Walt Disney for the classic Bambi.   

Another hour of sailing on the Cau Cau docked us at Victoria Island. Once the property of rich family this now natural reserve was home to an ever growing variety of Sequias, Arreyanas, and other native trees. Raul led our group on the historic walk of the island explaining how the original inhabitants lived and used the land to build canoes and hunt for food. Our half day excursion got us back to our hotel quite late and a new restaurant would have the privilege of serving us as their first patrons of the evening. 

The next day was our final big trek of our Trip was set to begin at 9am. However, Argentinian lifestyle got in the way and we left a bit later than anticipated. Being that we were on a tight timeframe to catch our flight we weren't thrilled about the delay. Fortunately, our trekking guide Roberto was up for the task as the continued down the road where would would hike within the Circuito Chico along the Llao Llao Peninsula. Our 1 hour and 4 minute hike to the top was filled with fantastic views of the lakes below. As we walked Roberto taught us about the flora and fauna we passed telling the legends of the famous Calafate berry. It's been said that anyone who consumes the local Patagonian fruit would return to the region in the future. Fortunately for us we enjoyed some of the delicious fruit before leaving Patagonia! At the top of the hike Roberto laid out a few pastries for us to enjoy as we gazed off into the surrounding areas. He pointed out Moreno lake, Cerro Lopez, Lago Brazo tristesta. I must say the Llao Llao peninsula meaning Sweet Sweet peninsula earns its name as the stunning views and the perfect weather couldn't have been more ideal.

 After our picnic we rushed down the mountain with hopes of making it to Cerro Campanario  before having to leave Patagonia. Fortunate for us the crowds were smaller than anticipated and we took the chairlift to the top of the mountain. There we were treated to what has been rated as one of the top 10 panoramic views in the world.

 After a few pictures we headed back down the chairlifts, much to the chagrin of Dad who didn't enjoy the dangling of the lift, and met back up with Guillermo, our driver, and Roberto. Roberto informed us of the good/bad news that he was alerted to. The good being we had time to see the view, the bad our flight had been delayed and our connection to Iguazu was now influx. The next hour of confusion ultimately led us back into downtown Bariloche where we enjoyed some gelato from one of the towns best Chocolate shops of Rapa Nui. Something about this tasty treat seemed to calm the crew of the uncertainty that lay ahead. After flight was delayed a few more times once we arrived at the airport but finally departed after we were told that the flight to Iguazu was being held to accommodate the passengers on our flight. Upon landing in Buenos Aires an announcement over the loud speaker instructed us to speak to a gate agent after exiting the plane. This wasn't a comforting announcement but after rushing off the plane we found out that our flight to Iguazu would be on the same plane we had just exited. All we could do was laugh at the run around we endured for naught. We finally landed in the jungle close to midnight and checked into our hotel. We were once again brought to the  wrong hotel room at least this time we didn't run into anyone in the room as we did in Ushuaia. We dragged our bags through the jungle area to or cabana before nodding off to sleep. 

Lake Time!

Our last day in El Calafate began with a more leisurely stroll through Laguna Nimez bringing our days in Calafate full circle. The sun was radiating again on the small Patagonian town and we had yet to enjoy an ice cream as was seemingly mandatory in each of our destinations. After a delightful gelato we packed up our things for our next flight to northern patagonia in San Carlos De Bariloche.

 Despite our late arrival daylight was still in our favor for walking through the Swiss/German designed town nestled between looming mountain sitting on the shores of lakes formed by glaciers years ago. We settled in our lodge-esque hotel right on the banks of Lago Nahuel Huapi (Tiger Island) with spectacular views. 

We familiarized ourselves with our new hometown for the next 3 days before arriving at dinner at Jauja before heading back for bed.

Awaking a bit later than usual on one of our very few unplanned days, we decided to summit the nearby Cerro Otto mountain. Fortunately for those worn down from trekking in Calafate a gondola ride substituted what appeared to be a challenging climb. Upon arriving at the top of the 1.400km mt we walked through the main building which housed a museum of Michelangelo replicas (no idea why) as well as the only rotating restaurant in Argentina. The clear skies made the stunning views of the lakes and mountains even more spectacular as we walked along paths to get better views of the lakes below.

 We felt it was only fitting to have a relaxing beverage in the restaurant before descending the mountain via the gondola. Once we arrived back to our cozy accommodations we wanted to soak in the sun by the pool and get a much needed breather in the middle of our vacation. 

Bariloche's main civic center is beautiful with an alpine thematic surrounding a square paying homage to their argentine heroes. Just beyond the arches to the east extends the main commercial street filled with chocolate shops and young entrepreneurs who were from what I presume,running illegal money exchanges. Mom was content only after sampling at least 10 different chocolate shops before dinner at our beloved Jauja. It being Carnival in Argentina we had to celebrate with the locals. We grabbed a sidewalk table on the main drag and listened to the bands playing a collection of spanish and English music on the streets before heading back for the night. 

Argentine Valentine

My Valentine's Day started off early and in what seems to be pure El Calafate fashion with the power not working efficiently. Despite this we managed to get ready and make our way to the bus for our day trip to Estancia Cristina! Our bus ride led us to the port where we would board the catamaran to sail across the lakes for 3 hours. Along our journey of wind and rain the sun graced us with its presence and a bright rainbow shown through the sky. We cruised through Brazo Upsala pacing massive icebergs on our way to the face of the Upsala Glacier. The movement of the lake causes large chunks of the glacier to break off and float into the channel. 

Our boat turned around after viewing the face of the glacier and headed back towards the main lake to then make its way through Brazo Cristina where we docked for our excursion to the Estancia. When our group, fittingly the Eagles, was called we loaded up into a 4x4 truck and journeyed 45 minutes up the mountainside to the Upsala Ice shelter. After a 15 minute walk through the wind and the rain we were rewarded with stunning panoramic views of the Upsala Glacier. With Mother Nature clearly feeling the love in the air, the sun shown through brightly for the remainder of the day. We all took our obligatory photos at the viewpoint before being asked to observe a moment of silence to appreciate the sights and sounds of the valley in front of us. 

Afterwards we returned to the Ice Shelter for some Glacier education. The Upsala glacier is also part of the South Patagonian ice field which ranks 3rd in size and importance in the world after Antartica and Greenland a s the world's fresh water reserves are maintained within them. Unlike Perito Moreno, Upsala has found itself reversing at an alarming rate over the last 100 years. The belief is that it is mostly due to Earths natural cycle however humans have also been a large factor of the decline in he worlds ice that once covered 1/3 of the planet now down to 1/10. Afterwards we boarded our 4x4 and made our way back down to the Estancia where we enjoyed our packed lunches. After lunch we were given a tour and learned of the history of the Estancia before walking the grounds to enjoy the beauty that surrounded us.

 As we returned to our catamaran for our cruise back we sat on the deck enjoying the beaming sun and the spectacular views of the icebergs and mountains that surrounded us as we wrapped up our Valentine's Day!

The Patagonian Ice Fields

An early morning by most standards found me suited up from head to toe by my moms decree in gear suited for a polar vortex. I met at the Hielo y Aventura office and boarded the 1.5 hour bus ride into Los Glaciers National Park. There we paid our entrance fee to the park and headed off to view the north and south faces of the mamouth glacier from the balconies.  

Perito Moreno is the most important glacier in Patagonia because it is currently the only stable glacier in the Ice field. Today I was off on my own as my parents due to their age in number not at heart were placed out of the Big Ice Trek. In search of some English speaking comrades to spend the 7 hours with I fortunately met Matt and January, a couple from Salt Lake City. We got to know each other a bit while watching and listening to the perpetually moving glacier in front of us. Loud cracks and roars bellowed through the valley as large chunks of ice separated from the glacier falling into the lake below. After the balconies we took a quick boat ride across Lago Roca to begin our trek. 

The first portion of the hike was on land for 45 minutes to the second camp where we were outfitted with crampons and safety harnesses. After finally reaching the ice we were divided into groups of 10. We made sure our trio stayed together throughout the division process. The guides didn't know what they were in for as they were constantly checking on us to make sure we were keeping pace as or joking around and leisurely pace wasn't quite suited for the group. 

An hour and a halfs long arduous hike across the glacier led us to jump crevices and climb large mounds of ice. Fortunately whenever we were tired a river as blue as the sky was nearby to fill up our water bottles for a sip of pure glacier water. 

As we approached the center of the glacier our guide deemed the grounds we walked on a fitting place to have lunch. 

Our guide marveled at the perfect weather we had claiming they only see 20 such days a year like today rendering my hand warmers, jackets, and hat useless. Afterwards we made our way back through the ice, onto the hiking trail, and back onto the boat. Awaiting us for our hard work was a glass of scotch chilled of course with blocks of ice freshly chipped from Perito Moreno herself. The bus ride back was silent as the day took a toll on everyone. I found myself the only one awake. Happy to have met great people to spend the day with and thankful my Friday the 13th went off without a hitch!

The Real Windy City

This morning we woke up with our Beagle Channel cruise booked and ready to go. After our transfer to the port we were notified that the Navy has closed the port due to severe winds. With our flight still some hours away we spent the morning walking the small streets of Ushuaia before being picked up for our flight. Throughout our stay in Ushuaia we always tried to figure out the rules of the road. On our way to the airport we finally had a local to ask and she replied "survival of the fittest". It seems to be quite a theme around here.

When we finally arrived on the third leg of our trip in El Calafate we wanted to make the most of the long sunlight hours and took a walk through Laguna Nimez nature reserve. While Mom and I were walking Dad was in charge of picking out a restaurant that would accommodate our restrictions. 

Fortunately we found a great spot that even offered a tango show! Given my new found appreciation for the art I was beyond ecstatic for the special treat. Moments after placing our order the lights went dark and we waited on baited breath for the show to begin. As a few minutes past we came to realize the room went dark since the entire city  had lost power and the restaurant hadn't planned the dramatic pause. The dinner went on without power and without tango dancing but we dined by candlelight. After our meal we returned to our hotel only to realize it was still lighter outside than it was in the powerless restaurant! A good nights rest was in order for the much anticipated long day ahead trekking Perito Moreno.